Hoo e ka banghalofo ea liaparo tsa lefats'e e entsoe ka polyester 'me Greenpeace e bolela esale pele hore palo ena e ka ba habeli ka 2030. Hobane'ng?Tloaelo ea lipapali haeba e 'ngoe ea mabaka a ka sehloohong a ka sehloohong: palo e ntseng e eketseha ea bareki e batla liaparo tse otlolohileng, tse hanyetsanang haholoanyane.Bothata ke hore, polyester hase khetho e tsitsitseng ea masela, kaha e entsoe ka polyethylene terephthalate (PET), mofuta o tloaelehileng ka ho fetisisa oa polasetiki lefatšeng.Ka bokhuts'oanyane, boholo ba liphahlo tsa rona li tsoa ho oli e tala, athe Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) e ntse e ipiletsa hore ho nkoe mehato e matla ho boloka mocheso oa lefatše o fihla ho 1.5 °C ho feta maemo a pele ho indasteri.
Lilemong tse tharo tse fetileng, mokhatlo o sa etseng phaello oa Textile Exchange o ile oa phephetsa lik'hamphani tse fetang 50 tsa masela, liaparo le tsa mabenkele (ho kenyeletsoa linatla tse kang Adidas, H&M, Gap le Ikea) ho eketsa tšebeliso ea bona ea polyester e tsosolositsoeng ka liperesente tse 25 ka 2020. E sebelitse: khoeling e fetileng , mokhatlo o fane ka polelo ea ho keteka hore ba saenneng ha baa ka ba finyella pakane feela lilemo tse peli pele ho nako e behiloeng, ba hlile ba e fetisitse ka ho eketsa tšebeliso ea bona ea polyester e tsosolositsoeng ka karolo ea 36 lekholong.Ho feta moo, lik'hamphani tse ling tse leshome le metso e 'meli li itlamme ho kenela phephetso selemong sena.Mokhatlo o bolela esale pele hore karolo ea 20 lekholong ea polyester eohle e tla sebelisoa hape ka 2030.
Polyester e tsosolositsoeng, e tsejoang hape e le rPET, e fumanoa ka ho qhibilihisa polasetiki e teng ebe e e bilika hape hore e be fiber e ncha ea polyester.Le hoja tlhokomelo e kholo e lebisitsoe ho rPET e entsoeng ka libotlolo tsa polasetiki le lijana tse lahliloeng ke bareki, ha e le hantle polyethylene terephthalate e ka sebelisoa hape ho tsoa ho lisebelisoa tsa morao-rao tsa indasteri le tsa morao-rao tsa bareki.Empa, ho etsa mohlala feela, libotlolo tse hlano tsa soda li fana ka fiber e lekaneng bakeng sa T-shirt e kholo e eketsehileng.
Le hoja ho tsosolosa polasetiki ho utloahala e le khopolo e ntle e ke keng ea latoloa, mokete oa rPET o hole le ho ba bonngoe sechabeng sa feshene e tsitsitseng.FashionUnited e bokelletse likhang tsa mantlha ho tsoa mahlakoreng ka bobeli.
Polyester e tsosolositsoeng: melemo
1. Ho thibela lipolasitiki hore li se ke tsa ea thotobolong le maoatleng-Polyester e tsosolositsoeng e fana ka bophelo ba bobeli ho thepa e sa senyeheng 'me e ka qetella e le litšila kapa leoatleng.Ho ea ka NGO Ocean Conservancy, lithane tse limilione tse 8 tsa polasetiki li kena ka leoatleng selemo se seng le se seng, ka holim'a lithane tse hakanyetsoang tsa limilione tse 150 tse ntseng li potoloha libakeng tsa leoatle.Haeba re boloka lebelo lena, ka 2050 ho tla ba le polasetiki e ngata leoatleng ho feta litlhapi.Ho fumanoe polasetiki ho karolo ea 60 lekholong ea linonyana tsohle tsa leoatle le karolo ea 100 lekholong ea mefuta eohle ea likolopata tsa leoatle, hobane e etsa phoso ea polasetiki bakeng sa lijo.
Mabapi le ho lahlela lithōle, Mokhatlo oa United States oa Tšireletso ea Tikoloho o tlalehile hore lithōle tsa naha li fumane lithane tse limilione tse 26 tsa polasetiki ka 2015 feela.EU e hakanya chelete e tšoanang e lokelang ho hlahisoa selemo le selemo ke litho tsa eona.Ha ho pelaelo hore liaparo ke karolo e kholo ea bothata: UK, tlaleho ea Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) e hakantse hore liaparo tse ka bang liponto tse limilione tse 140 li qetella li le litsing tsa mobu selemo le selemo."Ho nka litšila tsa polasetiki le ho li fetola thepa ea bohlokoa ho bohlokoa haholo ho batho le tikolohong ea rona," ho boletse Karla Magruder, Setho sa Boto ea Textile Exchange, lengolong la imeile ho FashionUnited.
2. rPET e ntle joalo ka polyester ea virgin, empa e nka lisebelisoa tse fokolang ho e etsa - Polyester e tsosolositsoeng e batla e tšoana le virgin polyester ho ea ka boleng, empa tlhahiso ea eona e hloka matla a 59 lekholong ha a bapisoa le polyester ea virgin, ho ea ka phuputso ea 2017. ka Ofisi ea Federale ea Switzerland bakeng sa Tikoloho.WRAP e hakanya tlhahiso ea rPET ho fokotsa tlhahiso ea CO2 ka liperesente tse 32 ha e bapisoa le polyester e tloaelehileng."Haeba u sheba litlhahlobo tsa potoloho ea bophelo, lintlha tsa rPET li betere haholo ho feta moroetsana PET," ho eketsa Magruder.
Ho feta moo, polyester e tsosolositsoeng e ka kenya letsoho ho fokotsa ho ntšoa ha oli e tala le khase ea tlhaho ho tsoa Lefatšeng ho etsa polasetiki e ngata."Ho sebelisa polyester e tsosolositsoeng ho fokotsa ho itšetleha ha rona ka petroleum e le mohloli oa lihlahisoa tse tala," ho bolela sebaka sa marang-rang sa mofuta oa kantle oa Patagonia, se tsebahalang haholo ka ho etsa boea bo tsoang libotlolong tsa soda tse sebelisitsoeng, litšila tse sa sebelisoeng le liaparo tse tsofetseng."E thibela ho lahla, kahoo e lelefatsa bophelo ba ho lahloa le ho fokotsa mesi e chefo e tsoang ho licheso.E boetse e thusa ho khothaletsa mekhoa e mecha ea ho sebelisoa hape bakeng sa liaparo tsa polyester tse seng li sa roaloe, "leibole ea eketsa.
"Hobane polyester e etsa hoo e ka bang karolo ea 60 lekholong ea tlhahiso ea lefats'e ea PET - hoo e ka bang habeli se sebelisoang ka libotlolong tsa polasetiki - ho hlahisa ketane ea phepelo e sa tsoakoang bakeng sa fiber ea polyester e na le monyetla oa ho ama matla a lefats'e le litlhoko tsa lisebelisoa," ho pheha khang brand ea American apparel. Nau, e tsejoang hape ka ho etelletsa pele likhetho tsa masela a tšoarellang.
Polyester e tsosolositsoeng: mathata
1. Recycling e na le mefokolo ea eona-Liaparo tse ngata ha li entsoe ka polyester feela, empa ho e-na le hoo li entsoe ka motsoako oa polyester le lisebelisoa tse ling.Boemong bo joalo, ho thata haholoanyane, kapa ho ke ke ha khoneha, ho li sebelisa hape."Maemong a mang, hoa khoneha, ka mohlala, ho kopanya le polyester le k'hothone.Empa e ntse e le boemong ba lifofane.Phephetso ke ho fumana lits'ebetso tse ka phahamisoang hantle mme ha re e-so fihle, "ho boletse Magruder ho Suston Magazine ka 2017. Li-laminations tse ling le ho qeta ho sebelisoa ho masela le tsona li ka etsa hore li se ke tsa sebelisoa hape.
Esita le liaparo tsa polyester ea 100 lekholong li ke ke tsa sebelisoa hape ka ho sa feleng.Ho na le mekhoa e 'meli ea ho sebelisa PET hape: ka mochini le ka lik'hemik'hale."Ho sebelisa botlolo ea mochine ho nka botlolo ea polasetiki, ho e hlatsoa, ho e qhetsola ebe e khutlisetsoa ho chip ea polyester, e ntan'o tsoela pele ka mokhoa o tloaelehileng oa ho etsa likhoele.Ho tsosolosa lik'hemik'hale ho nka sehlahisoa sa polasetiki se senyehileng ebe se se khutlisetsa ho li-monomer tsa eona tsa pele, tse ke keng tsa khetholloa ho polyester e sa tsoakoang.Tsena li ka khutlela tsamaisong e tloaelehileng ea ho etsa polyester," Magruder o hlalositse FashionUnited.Boholo ba rPET bo fumanoa ka ho tsosolosa mechine, kaha ke eona e theko e tlaase ka ho fetisisa ho tse peli 'me ha e hloke lik'hemik'hale ntle le li-detergent tse hlokahalang ho hloekisa thepa ea ho kenya.Leha ho le joalo, “ka tšebetso ena, tlhale e ka lahleheloa ke matla ’me kahoo e lokela ho kopanngoa le virgin fiber,” ho hlokomela Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.
"Batho ba bangata ba lumela hore lipolasetiki li ka sebelisoa hape ka ho sa feleng, empa nako le nako ha polasetiki e futhumatsoa e ea senyeha, ka hona, ka mor'a moo, polymer e senyeha, 'me polasetiki e lokela ho sebelisoa ho etsa lihlahisoa tsa boleng bo tlaase," ho boletse Patty Grossman, mothehi-'moho le eena. Baralib'abo rōna ba babeli Ecotextiles, ka lengolo-tsoibila ho FashionUnited.Textile Exchange, leha ho le joalo, ho websaeteng ea eona e re rPET e ka sebelisoa hape ka lilemo tse ngata: "Liaparo tse tsoang ho polyester e tsosolositsoeng li ikemiselitse ho tsoela pele ho sebelisoa ntle le ho senyeha ha boleng", ho phaella ka hore potoloho ea liaparo tsa polyester e na le monyetla oa ho fetoha " mokhoa o koetsoeng oa loop” ka tsatsi le leng.
Ba latelang mohopolo oa Grossman ba pheha khang ea hore lefatše le lokela ho hlahisa le ho sebelisa polasetiki e fokolang ka kakaretso.Haeba sechaba se lumela hore ntho e ’ngoe le e ’ngoe eo ba e lahlang e ka sebelisoa hape, mohlomong ba ke ke ba bona bothata ba ho tsoela pele ho ja thepa ea polasetiki e lahloang.Ka bomalimabe, ke karolo e nyane feela ea polasetiki eo re e sebelisang e sebelisoang hape.United States, karolo ea 9 lekholong feela ea lipolasetiki tsohle li ile tsa sebelisoa hape ka 2015, ho latela Setsi sa Tšireletso ea Tikoloho sa US.
Ba batlang maikutlo a fokolang a rPET ba buella hore lihlahisoa tsa feshene le bareki ba lokela ho khothaletsoa ho rata likhoele tsa tlhaho ka hohle kamoo ho ka khonehang.Ntle le moo, leha rPET e nka matla a tlase ho liperesente tse 59 ho hlahisa ho feta polyester ea moroetsana, e ntse e hloka matla a mangata ho feta hemp, boea le k'hothone ea tlhaho le e tloaelehileng, ho latela tlaleho ea 2010 e tsoang ho Stockholm Environment Institute.
