Pafupifupitheka la zovala zapadziko lonse lapansi ndi zopangidwa ndi poliyesitala ndipo Greenpeace ikuneneratu kuti izi zidzachuluka kuwirikiza kawiri pofika chaka cha 2030. Chifukwa chiyani?Mchitidwe wothamanga ngati chimodzi mwazifukwa zazikulu zomwe zimachititsa: kuchuluka kwa ogula kumayang'ana zovala zotambasula, zosamva.Vuto ndiloti, polyester si njira yokhazikika ya nsalu, chifukwa imapangidwa kuchokera ku polyethylene terephthalate (PET), mtundu wofala kwambiri wa pulasitiki padziko lapansi.Mwachidule, zovala zathu zambiri zimachokera ku mafuta amafuta, pomwe bungwe la Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) likufuna kuchitapo kanthu mwamphamvu kuti kutentha kwa dziko kukhale kopitilira 1.5 °C kuposa momwe mafakitale asanayambike.
Zaka zitatu zapitazo, bungwe lopanda phindu la Textile Exchange lidatsutsa makampani opitilira 50 opanga nsalu, zovala ndi ogulitsa (kuphatikiza zimphona ngati Adidas, H&M, Gap ndi Ikea) kuti awonjezere kugwiritsa ntchito kwawo poliyesitala wokonzedwanso ndi 25 peresenti pofika 2020. Zinagwira ntchito: mwezi watha , bungwe lidapereka mawu okondwerera kuti osayina sanangokwaniritsa cholingacho zaka ziwiri tsiku lomaliza lisanafike, adadutsa powonjezera kugwiritsa ntchito kwawo poliyesitala wopangidwanso ndi 36 peresenti.Kuonjezera apo, makampani ena khumi ndi awiri adalonjeza kuti adzachita nawo ntchitoyi chaka chino.Bungweli likuneneratu kuti 20 peresenti ya poliyesitala yonse idzagwiritsidwanso ntchito pofika 2030.
Polyester yobwezerezedwanso, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti rPET, imapezeka posungunula pulasitiki yomwe ilipo ndikuizunguliranso kukhala ulusi watsopano wa polyester.Ngakhale chidwi chimaperekedwa ku rPET yopangidwa kuchokera ku mabotolo apulasitiki ndi zotengera zotayidwa ndi ogula, kwenikweni polyethylene terephthalate imatha kubwezeredwa kuchokera kuzinthu zonse zomwe zidapangidwa pambuyo pa mafakitale komanso pambuyo pa ogula.Koma, mwachitsanzo, mabotolo asanu a soda amatulutsa ulusi wokwanira t-sheti imodzi yayikulu.
Ngakhale kubweza pulasitiki kumamveka ngati lingaliro labwino losatsutsika, chikondwerero cha rPET sichikhala chogwirizana m'magulu okhazikika afashoni.FashionUnited yasonkhanitsa mikangano yayikulu mbali zonse ziwiri.
Polyester yobwezerezedwanso: zabwino
1. Kuteteza mapulasitiki kuti asapite kutayirako komanso kunyanja-Polyester yobwezerezedwanso imapereka moyo wachiwiri kuzinthu zomwe sizingawonongeke ndipo zikanatha kutayidwa kapena m'nyanja.Malinga ndi bungwe la NGO Ocean Conservancy, matani 8 miliyoni apulasitiki amalowa m'nyanja chaka chilichonse, pamwamba pa matani pafupifupi 150 miliyoni omwe amazungulira m'madzi am'madzi.Ngati titsatira izi, pofika chaka cha 2050 padzakhala pulasitiki yambiri m'nyanja kuposa nsomba.Pulasitiki wapezeka mu 60 peresenti ya mbalame zonse za m’nyanja ndi 100 peresenti ya akamba onse a m’nyanja, chifukwa amalakwitsa pulasitiki ngati chakudya.
Ponena za zotayirapo, bungwe la United States Environmental Protection Agency linanena kuti malo otayirako nthaka a m’dzikoli analandira matani 26 miliyoni apulasitiki m’chaka cha 2015 chokha.EU ikuyerekeza ndalama zomwezo zomwe mamembala ake azipanga chaka chilichonse.Zovala mosakayikira ndi gawo lalikulu la vutoli: ku UK, lipoti la Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) linanena kuti pafupifupi zovala zokwana mapaundi 140 miliyoni zimatha kutayidwa chaka chilichonse."Kutenga zinyalala za pulasitiki ndikuzisandutsa zinthu zothandiza ndizofunikira kwambiri kwa anthu komanso chilengedwe chathu," adatero Karla Magruder, membala wa Board of Textile Exchange, mu imelo ku FashionUnited.
2. rPET ndi yabwino ngati poliyesitala wa namwali, koma imatenga zinthu zochepa kuti ipange - Polyester yowonjezeredwa ndi yofanana ndi poliyesitala wa namwali malinga ndi khalidwe, koma kupanga kwake kumafuna mphamvu zocheperapo ndi 59 peresenti poyerekeza ndi poliyesitala wa namwali, malinga ndi kafukufuku wa 2017. ndi Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.WRAP ikuyerekeza kupanga kwa rPET kuti achepetse mpweya wa CO2 ndi 32 peresenti poyerekeza ndi poliyesitala wamba."Mukayang'ana kuwunika kwa moyo, rPET imapeza bwino kuposa namwali PET," akuwonjezera Magruder.
Kuphatikiza apo, poliyesitala yobwezerezedwanso imatha kuthandizira kuchepetsa kuchotsedwa kwamafuta osakhazikika ndi gasi wachilengedwe padziko lapansi kuti apange pulasitiki yochulukirapo."Kugwiritsa ntchito poliyesitala wobwezerezedwanso kumachepetsa kudalira kwathu mafuta ngati gwero la zopangira," ikutero tsamba lakunja la Patagonia, lodziwika bwino popanga ubweya kuchokera ku mabotolo a soda, zinyalala zosagwiritsidwa ntchito komanso zovala zotha.“Kumaletsa kutaya zinthu, motero kumatalikitsa moyo wa zotayiramo nthaka ndi kuchepetsa mpweya wapoizoni wotuluka muzotenthetsa.Zimathandizanso kulimbikitsa mitsinje yatsopano yobwezeretsanso zovala za polyester zomwe sizitha kuvalanso," akuwonjezera chizindikirocho.
"Chifukwa poliyesitala imapanga pafupifupi 60 peresenti ya PET padziko lonse lapansi - pafupifupi kuwirikiza kawiri zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito m'mabotolo apulasitiki - kupanga makina opangira ma polyester fiber amatha kukhudza kwambiri mphamvu zapadziko lonse lapansi ndi zofunikira," akutero American aarel brand. Nau, yemwe amadziwikanso kuti amaika patsogolo zosankha zansalu zokhazikika.
Zobwezerezedwanso polyester: kuipa
1. Kubwezeretsanso kuli ndi malire ake-Zovala zambiri sizimapangidwa kuchokera ku poliyesitala yokha, koma kuchokera ku kuphatikiza kwa polyester ndi zinthu zina.Zikatero, zimakhala zovuta, kapena zosatheka, kuzibwezeretsanso.Nthawi zina, ndizotheka mwaukadaulo, mwachitsanzo kuphatikiza ndi polyester ndi thonje.Koma ikadali pamlingo woyendetsa ndege.Vuto ndilopeza njira zomwe zingathe kukulitsidwa bwino ndipo sitinakhalepo, "adatero Magruder ku Suston Magazine mu 2017. Zowonongeka zina ndi zomaliza zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pa nsaluzi zingapangitsenso kuti zisagwiritsidwenso ntchito.
Ngakhale zovala zomwe zili 100 peresenti ya polyester sizingasinthidwenso mpaka kalekale.Pali njira ziwiri zosinthira PET: makina ndi mankhwala.“Makina okonzanso zinthu ndikutenga botolo lapulasitiki, kulichapa, kuling’amba kenaka n’kulisandutsanso chipwirikiti cha poliyesitala, chomwe chimadutsa m’njira yachikhalidwe yopangira ulusi.Chemical recycling akutenga zinyalala pulasitiki mankhwala ndi kubwerera ku monomers ake oyambirira, amene sasiyanitsidwe ndi virgin polyester.Izi zitha kubwereranso kuzinthu zopangira ma polyester," adatero Magruder ku FashionUnited.RPET yambiri imapezeka kudzera m'makina obwezeretsanso, chifukwa ndiyotsika mtengo kwambiri panjira ziwirizi ndipo safuna mankhwala ena kupatula zotsukira zomwe zimafunikira kuyeretsa zida zolowera.Komabe, “kudzera m’kachitidwe kameneka, ulusiwo ukhoza kutaya mphamvu ndipo motero umafunika kusakanizidwa ndi ulusi womwe unamwalila,” ikutero Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.
"Anthu ambiri amakhulupirira kuti mapulasitiki amatha kubwezeretsedwanso kosatha, koma nthawi iliyonse pulasitiki ikatenthedwa imawonongeka, motero kubwereza kwa polima kumawonongeka ndipo pulasitiki iyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zinthu zotsika," adatero Patty Grossman, woyambitsa nawo. Alongo Awiri Ecotextiles, mu imelo ku FashionUnited.Textile Exchange, komabe, ikunena pa tsamba lake kuti rPET ikhoza kubwezeretsedwanso kwa zaka zambiri: "zovala zochokera ku polyester zobwezerezedwanso zimayenera kusinthidwa mosalekeza popanda kuwonongeka kwa khalidwe", linalemba bungweli, ndikuwonjezera kuti chovala cha polyester chikhoza kukhala " njira yotsekeka” tsiku lina.
Amene amatsatira maganizo a Grossman amanena kuti dziko liyenera kupanga ndi kuwononga pulasitiki yochepa.Ngati anthu akukhulupirira kuti chilichonse chomwe amataya chikhoza kubwezeretsedwanso, mwina sangawone vuto kupitiliza kudya zinthu zapulasitiki zotayidwa.Tsoka ilo, ndi gawo laling'ono chabe la pulasitiki lomwe timagwiritsa ntchito lomwe limasinthidwanso.Ku United States, 9 peresenti yokha ya mapulasitiki onse adasinthidwanso mu 2015, malinga ndi US Environmental Protection Agency.
Omwe akufuna kuti asamasangalale pang'ono a rPET amateteza kuti opanga mafashoni ndi ogula ayenera kulimbikitsidwa kuti azikonda ulusi wachilengedwe momwe angathere.Kupatula apo, ngakhale rPET imatenga mphamvu zochepera 59 peresenti kuti ipange kuposa poliyesitala wa namwali, imafunikirabe mphamvu zambiri kuposa hemp, ubweya ndi thonje wamba komanso wamba, malinga ndi lipoti la 2010 lochokera ku Stockholm Environment Institute.
