KokokeʻO ka hapalua o nā lole o ka honua i hana ʻia me ka polyester a ua wānana ʻo Greenpeace i kēia nui e aneane pālua i ka makahiki 2030. No ke aha?ʻO ke ʻano haʻuki inā ʻo kekahi o nā kumu nui ma hope o ia: ke ʻimi nei ka nui o nā mea kūʻai aku i nā lole ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi a me ke kūpaʻa.ʻO ka pilikia, ʻo ka polyester ʻaʻole ia he koho textile hoʻomau, no ka mea, ua hana ʻia mai ka polyethylene terephthalate (PET), ka ʻano plastic maʻamau i ka honua.I ka pōkole, ʻo ka hapa nui o kā mākou mau lole e hele mai ana mai ka ʻaila maʻemaʻe, ʻoiai ke kāhea nei ka Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) i nā hana koʻikoʻi e mālama i ka mahana o ka honua i kahi kiʻekiʻe o 1.5 °C ma mua o nā pae hana.

ʻEkolu mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua hoʻokūkū ka hui waiwai ʻole ʻo Textile Exchange ma luna o 50 textile, lole a me nā hui kūʻai aku (me nā hui nunui e like me Adidas, H&M, Gap a me Ikea) e hoʻonui i kā lākou hoʻohana ʻana i ka polyester recycled e 25 pakeneka e 2020. Ua hana: i ka mahina i hala. , Ua hoʻopuka ka hui i kahi ʻōlelo e hoʻolauleʻa nei ʻaʻole i hoʻokō wale nā ​​​​mea hōʻailona i ka pahuhopu ʻelua mau makahiki ma mua o ka lā palena, ua ʻoi aku lākou ma mua o ka hoʻonui ʻana i kā lākou hoʻohana ʻana i ka polyester recycled e 36 pakeneka.Eia hou, he ʻumikūmālua mau ʻoihana i hoʻohiki e hui pū i ka hoʻokūkū i kēia makahiki.Manaʻo ka hui i ka 20 pakeneka o nā polyester a pau e hana hou ʻia e 2030.

Loaʻa ka polyester recycled, ʻike ʻia hoʻi ʻo rPET, ma ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka plastic i loaʻa a milo hou i loko o ka fiber polyester hou.ʻOiai e nānā nui ʻia ka rPET i hana ʻia mai nā ʻōmole plastik a me nā ipu i hoʻolei ʻia e nā mea kūʻai aku, ʻoiaʻiʻo, hiki ke hoʻohana hou ʻia ka polyethylene terephthalate mai nā mea hoʻokomo ma hope o ka ʻoihana a me ka mea hoʻohana.Akā, no ka hāʻawi ʻana i kahi laʻana, ʻelima ʻōmole soda e hāʻawi i ka fiber lawa no hoʻokahi T-shirt nui.

ʻOiai he manaʻo maikaʻi ʻole ka hana hou ʻana i ka plastic, ʻaʻole lōʻihi ka hoʻolauleʻa ʻana o rPET mai ka lokahi ʻana i ke kaiāulu ʻano hoʻomau.Ua hōʻiliʻili ʻo FashionUnited i nā manaʻo nui mai nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua.

ʻO ka polyester hou: nā mea maikaʻi

1. Ka mālama ʻana i nā palaka mai ka hele ʻana i ka ʻāina a me ke kai-Hāʻawi ka polyester recycled i ke ola ʻelua i kahi mea hiki ʻole ke biodegradable a i ʻole e hoʻopau ʻia i ka pae ʻāina a i ʻole ke kai.Wahi a ka NGO Ocean Conservancy, 8 miliona metric tons o ka plastic i komo i ka moana i kēlā me kēia makahiki, ma luna o ka 150 miliona metric tons i manaʻo ʻia e holo nei i nā kaiapuni kai.Inā mālama mākou i kēia kaʻina, ma ka makahiki 2050 e ʻoi aku ka nui o ka iʻa ma ke kai.Loaʻa ka palaki i loko o 60 pākēneka o nā manu kai a me 100 pākēneka o nā ʻano honu kai a pau, no ka mea, kuhi hewa lākou i ka plastic i ka meaʻai.

No ka pae ʻāina, ua hōʻike ka United States Environmental Protection Agency i ka loaʻa ʻana o 26 miliona mau tone plastic i ka makahiki 2015 wale nō i nā ʻāina ʻāina.Manaʻo ka EU i ka nui like e hana ʻia i kēlā me kēia makahiki e kona mau lālā.ʻO nā lole he mea kānalua ʻole kahi hapa nui o ka pilikia: ma UK, kahi hōʻike a ka Waste and Resources Action Program (WRAP) i manaʻo ʻia ma kahi o 140 miliona mau paona o nā lole e pau i nā pae ʻāina i kēlā me kēia makahiki."ʻO ka lawe ʻana i ka ʻōpala palaka a hoʻololi iā ia i mea pono no ke kanaka a me ko mākou kaiapuni," wahi a Karla Magruder, ka Luna Hoʻokele o Textile Exchange, ma ka leka uila i FashionUnited.

2. Ua like ka maikaʻi o ka rPET e like me ka polyester puʻupaʻa, akā ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o nā kumuwaiwai e hana ai - ʻO ka polyester Recycled ua aneane like me ka polyester puʻupaʻa ma ke ʻano o ka maikaʻi, akā pono kāna hana ʻana he 59 pakeneka emi ka ikehu ma mua o ka polyester puʻupaʻa, e like me ka noiʻi 2017. e ke Keʻena Federal Federal no ka Environment.Manaʻo ʻo WRAP i ka hana ʻana o rPET e hōʻemi i ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana o CO2 ma 32 pakeneka ma ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana me ka polyester maʻamau."Inā ʻoe e nānā i nā loiloi o ke ola, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka rPET ma mua o ka PET puʻupaʻa," wahi a Magruder.

Eia kekahi, hiki i ka polyester recycled ke kōkua i ka hoʻemi ʻana i ka ʻili ʻana o ka ʻaila ʻaila a me ke kinoea maoli mai ka Honua e hana hou i ka plastic."ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka polyester recycled e hōʻemi i ko mākou hilinaʻi ʻana i ka ʻaila ma ke ʻano he kumu waiwai," wahi a ka pūnaewele o waho o ka brand Patagonia, kaulana loa no ka hana ʻana i ka huluhulu mai nā ʻōmole soda i hoʻohana ʻia, nā ʻōpala hana hiki ʻole ke hoʻohana ʻia a me nā lole kahiko."Hoʻopau ia i ka hoʻolei ʻana, a laila e hoʻolōʻihi i ke ola ʻāina a hōʻemi i nā hoʻokuʻu ʻawaʻawa mai nā incinerators.He mea kōkua nō hoʻi i ka hoʻolaha ʻana i nā kahawai hou no nā lole polyester ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻohana hou ʻia, "hoʻohui ʻia ka lepili.

"No ka mea, ʻo ka polyester e pili ana i ka 60 pakeneka o ka honua i hana ʻia o PET - ma kahi o ʻelua mau mea i hoʻohana ʻia i loko o nā hue plastik - ka hoʻomohala ʻana i kahi kaulahao lako ʻole no ka polyester fiber hiki ke hoʻopilikia nui i ka ikehu honua a me nā pono waiwai," wahi a ʻAmelika. ʻO Nau, ʻike ʻia no ka hoʻokumu ʻana i nā koho lole hoʻomau.

ʻO ka polyester i hana hou ʻia: nā pōʻino

1. He mau palena ko ka hana hou-ʻAʻole i hana ʻia nā lole he nui mai ka polyester wale nō, akā mai ka hui ʻana o ka polyester a me nā mea ʻē aʻe.I kēlā hihia, ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī, inā ʻaʻole hiki ʻole ke hana hou iā lākou."I kekahi mau hihia, hiki ke hana, no ka laʻana, hui pū me ka polyester a me ka pulupulu.Aia nō naʻe ma ka pae hoʻokele.ʻO ka paʻakikī ka loaʻa ʻana o nā kaʻina hana hiki ke hoʻonui pono ʻia a ʻaʻole mākou i laila, "wahi a Magruder iā Suston Magazine ma 2017. ʻO kekahi mau laminations a me nā hoʻopau ʻana i hoʻopili ʻia i nā lole hiki ke hoʻolilo iā lākou ʻaʻole hiki ke hana hou ʻia.

ʻAʻole hiki ke hana hou ʻia nā lole i 100% polyester.ʻElua ala e hana hou ai i ka PET: me ka mechanical a me ke kemika.“Ke lawe nei ka mīkini hana hou i ka ʻōmole plastik, holoi, ʻokiʻoki a hoʻohuli hou i loko o ka puʻupuʻu polyester, a laila e hele i ke kaʻina hana kuʻuna fiber.Ke lawe nei ka hana hou ʻana i ke kemika i kahi huahana palaka ʻōpala a hoʻihoʻi iā ia i kāna monomers mua, ʻaʻole hiki ke ʻike ʻia mai ka polyester puʻupaʻa.Hiki iā lākou ke hoʻi i loko o ka ʻōnaehana hana polyester maʻamau, "i wehewehe ʻo Magruder iā FashionUnited.Loaʻa ka hapa nui o ka rPET ma o ka hana hou ʻana i ka mīkini, no ka mea ʻo ia ka mea liʻiliʻi loa o nā kaʻina hana ʻelua a ʻaʻohe koi kemika ʻē aʻe ma mua o nā mea holoi e pono ai e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i nā mea komo.Eia naʻe, "ma kēia kaʻina hana, hiki i ka fiber ke lilo i kona ikaika a no laila pono e hui pū ʻia me ka fiber puʻupaʻa," wahi a ka Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.

"Ke manaʻoʻiʻo nei ka hapa nui o ka poʻe e hiki ke hana hou ʻia nā plastics, akā i kēlā me kēia manawa e hoʻomehana ʻia ka plastic, e hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻia, no laila e hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻia ka hoʻololi ʻana o ka polymer a pono e hoʻohana ʻia ka plastic e hana i nā huahana haʻahaʻa," wahi a Patty Grossman, ka mea hoʻokumu o ʻElua Sisters Ecotextiles, ma ka leka uila i FashionUnited.ʻO Textile Exchange, akā naʻe, ʻōlelo ʻo ia ma kāna pūnaewele hiki ke hana hou ʻia ka rPET no nā makahiki he nui: "ʻo nā lole mai ka polyester recycled e manaʻo e hoʻomau hou ʻia me ka ʻole o ka hōʻino ʻana o ka maikaʻi", i kākau ai ka hui, me ka hoʻohui ʻana i ka pōʻai lole polyester hiki ke lilo i " he ʻōnaehana hoʻopaʻa ʻia” i kekahi lā.

ʻO ka poʻe e hahai ana i ka manaʻo o Grossman e hoʻopaʻapaʻa e hana ka honua a hoʻopau i ka liʻiliʻi i ka plastic ma ka laulā.Inā manaʻo ka lehulehu e hiki ke hana hou ʻia nā mea a pau a lākou e hoʻolei aku ai, ʻaʻole paha lākou e ʻike i ka pilikia i ka hoʻomau ʻana i ka ʻai ʻana i nā mea i hoʻopau ʻia.ʻO ka mea pōʻino, he wahi liʻiliʻi wale nō o ka plastic a mākou e hoʻohana nei e hana hou ʻia.Ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa, he 9 pākēneka wale nō o nā plastics āpau i hana hou ʻia i ka makahiki 2015, e like me ka US Environmental Protection Agency.

ʻO ka poʻe e kāhea ana i kahi ʻike haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa o rPET e pale aku i ka paipai ʻia ʻana o nā hōʻailona hana a me nā mea kūʻai aku e makemake i nā fiber maoli e like me ka hiki.Ma hope o nā mea a pau, ʻoiai ʻo ka rPET e lawe i ka 59 pakeneka ka liʻiliʻi o ka ikehu e hana ai ma mua o ka polyester puʻupaʻa, pono ia e ʻoi aku ka ikaika ma mua o ka hemp, ka huluhulu a me ka pulupulu kūlohelohe a maʻamau, e like me ka hōʻike 2010 mai ka Stockholm Environment Institute.