Kusanrabin tufafin duniya an yi su ne da polyester kuma Greenpeace ta yi hasashen adadin zai kusan ninki biyu nan da 2030. Me yasa?Halin wasan motsa jiki idan daya daga cikin manyan dalilai a baya: karuwar yawan masu amfani suna neman shimfiɗa, tufafi masu tsayayya.Matsalar ita ce, polyester ba zaɓi ne mai dorewa ba, kamar yadda aka yi shi daga polyethylene terephthalate (PET), nau'in filastik da aka fi sani a duniya.A takaice dai, galibin tufafinmu sun fito ne daga danyen mai, yayin da kungiyar gwamnatocin kasashen duniya kan sauyin yanayi (IPCC) ke kira da a dauki tsauraran matakai don kiyaye yanayin zafi a duniya zuwa matsakaicin 1.5 ° C sama da matakan masana'antu.

Shekaru uku da suka gabata, kungiyar da ba ta riba ba Textile Exchange ta kalubalanci kan 50 masaku, tufafi da kamfanonin dillalai (ciki har da kattai kamar Adidas, H&M, Gap da Ikea) don kara yawan amfani da polyester da aka sake sarrafa da kashi 25 cikin 2020. Ya yi aiki: watan da ya gabata. , kungiyar ta fitar da wata sanarwa inda ta nuna farin cikinta da cewa, ba wai shekaru biyu ne kawai suka sanya hannu kan cika wannan buri ba, a zahiri sun zarce ta ta hanyar amfani da polyester da aka sake sarrafa da kashi 36 cikin dari.Bugu da kari, wasu kamfanoni goma sha biyu sun yi alkawarin shiga wannan kalubalen.Kungiyar ta yi hasashen kashi 20 na duk polyester da za a sake yin amfani da su nan da shekarar 2030.

Polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida, wanda kuma aka sani da rPET, ana samun su ta hanyar narkewar robobin da ke akwai da sake jujjuya shi cikin sabon fiber polyester.Yayin da ake ba da hankali sosai ga rPET da aka yi daga kwalabe na filastik da kwantena da masu siye suka jefar, a gaskiya polyethylene terephthalate za a iya sake yin fa'ida daga duka kayan shigar da masana'antu da bayan-mabukaci.Amma, kawai don ba da misali, kwalabe soda guda biyar suna samar da isasshen fiber don ƙarin T-shirt guda ɗaya.

Ko da yake sake yin amfani da filastik yana kama da kyakkyawan ra'ayi mai kyau, bikin rPET ya yi nisa daga kasancewa haɗin kai a cikin al'ummar fashion mai dorewa.FashionUnited ya tattara manyan muhawara daga bangarorin biyu.

Polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida: ribobi

1. Tsare robobi daga zuwa wurin shara da kuma teku-Polyester da aka sake fa'ida yana ba da rayuwa ta biyu ga kayan da ba za su iya lalacewa ba kuma in ba haka ba zai ƙare a cikin ƙasa ko teku.A cewar wata kungiya mai zaman kanta ta Ocean Conservancy, metric ton miliyan 8 na robobi na shiga cikin teku a kowace shekara, sama da metric ton miliyan 150 da aka kiyasta a halin yanzu suna yawo a cikin yanayin ruwa.Idan muka ci gaba da wannan tafiya, nan da shekara ta 2050 za a samu filaye fiye da kifaye a cikin teku.An samo filastik a cikin kashi 60 cikin 100 na duk tsuntsayen teku da kashi 100 na duk nau'in kunkuru na teku, saboda suna kuskuren filastik don abinci.

Dangane da batun zubar da shara kuwa, Hukumar Kare Muhalli ta Amurka ta bayar da rahoton cewa, matsugunan kasar sun samu tan miliyan 26 na robobi a shekarar 2015 kadai.EU ta ƙiyasta adadin adadin da membobinta za su samu kowace shekara.Tufafi ba shakka babban ɓangare ne na matsalar: a Burtaniya, wani rahoto na Shirin Waste and Resources Action Program (WRAP) ya kiyasta cewa kusan fam miliyan 140 na tufafin ke ƙarewa a wuraren zubar da ƙasa kowace shekara.Karla Magruder, Memba na Hukumar Musanya Yadu, a cikin imel zuwa FashionUnited, ta ce "Sharar filastik da juya shi zuwa wani abu mai amfani yana da matukar muhimmanci ga mutane da muhallinmu."

2. RPET yana da kyau kamar budurwa polyester, amma yana ɗaukar ƙasa kaɗan don yin - Polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida kusan iri ɗaya ne da budurwa polyester ta fuskar inganci, amma samar da shi yana buƙatar ƙarancin kuzari 59 cikin ɗari idan aka kwatanta da budurwa polyester, a cewar wani bincike na 2017. ta Ofishin Tarayyar Swiss don Muhalli.WRAP ya kiyasta samar da rPET don rage hayakin CO2 da kashi 32 cikin dari idan aka kwatanta da polyester na yau da kullun.Magruder ya kara da cewa "Idan ka kalli kimar sake zagayowar rayuwa, rPET ya fi kyau fiye da budurwa PET," in ji Magruder.

Bugu da kari, polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida zai iya ba da gudummawa don rage fitar da danyen mai da iskar gas daga duniya don yin robobi."Amfani da polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida yana rage dogaro ga man fetur a matsayin tushen albarkatun ƙasa," in ji shafin yanar gizon alamar waje na Patagonia, wanda aka fi sani da yin ulu daga kwalabe na soda da aka yi amfani da su, dattin masana'anta da kuma tsofaffin tufafi.“Yana hana zubar da ciki, ta yadda za a tsawaita rayuwar zubar da ƙasa tare da rage hayaki mai guba daga masu ƙonewa.Hakanan yana taimakawa wajen haɓaka sabbin rafukan sake yin amfani da su don suturar polyester waɗanda ba za su iya sawa ba,” in ji alamar.

"Saboda polyester yana da kusan kashi 60 cikin 100 na samar da PET a duniya - kusan sau biyu abin da ake amfani da shi a cikin kwalabe na filastik - haɓaka sarkar samar da kayan da ba budurwa ba don fiber polyester yana da yuwuwar tasiri ga makamashi da buƙatun albarkatun duniya," in ji alamar tufafin Amurka. Nau, kuma an san shi don ba da fifikon zaɓuɓɓukan masana'anta masu dorewa.

Polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida: fursunoni

1. Maimaituwa yana da iyakoki-Yawancin tufafi ba a yi su daga polyester kadai ba, amma daga cakuda polyester da sauran kayan.A wannan yanayin, yana da wahala, idan ba zai yiwu ba, a sake sarrafa su.“A wasu lokuta, a zahiri yana yiwuwa, alal misali haɗe da polyester da auduga.Amma har yanzu yana kan matakin matukin jirgi.Kalubalen shine a nemo hanyoyin da za a iya haɓaka da kyau kuma har yanzu ba mu isa ba, ”in ji Magruder ga Suston Magazine a cikin 2017. Wasu laminations da ƙarewa da aka yi amfani da su a kan yadudduka kuma na iya sa ba za a sake yin amfani da su ba.

Ko da tufafin da ke da kashi 100 na polyester ba za a iya sake yin su ba har abada.Akwai hanyoyi guda biyu don sake sarrafa PET: na inji da sinadarai.“Sake amfani da injina yana ɗaukar kwalbar roba, a wanke ta, a yanka ta sannan a mayar da ita cikin guntun polyester, wanda daga nan za a bi ta hanyar yin fiber na gargajiya.Sake yin amfani da sinadarai yana ɗaukar samfurin robobi na ɓata yana mayar da shi zuwa ainihin monomers ɗinsa, waɗanda ba za a iya bambanta su da budurwa polyester ba.Wadanda zasu iya komawa cikin tsarin masana'antar polyester na yau da kullun, "in ji Magruder ga FashionUnited.Yawancin rPET ana samun su ta hanyar sake yin amfani da injina, saboda shi ne mafi arha daga cikin hanyoyin biyu kuma yana buƙatar wani sinadari sai dai wanki da ake buƙata don tsaftace kayan shigarwa.Duk da haka, "ta wannan tsari, zaren zai iya rasa ƙarfinsa kuma don haka yana buƙatar a haɗa shi da fiber na budurwa," in ji Ofishin Tarayyar Switzerland don Muhalli.

"Yawancin mutane sun yi imanin cewa robobi za a iya sake yin amfani da su ba tare da iyaka ba, amma duk lokacin da filastik ya yi zafi yana raguwa, don haka sake yin amfani da polymer na gaba ya lalace kuma dole ne a yi amfani da filastik don yin ƙananan samfurori," in ji Patty Grossman, co-kafa kamfanin. Sisters Biyu Ecotextiles, a cikin imel zuwa FashionUnited.Musanya yadudduka, duk da haka, ta bayyana a shafinta na yanar gizo cewa rPET za a iya sake yin fa'ida na tsawon shekaru da yawa: "tufafi daga polyester da aka sake yin fa'ida da nufin ci gaba da sake yin fa'ida ba tare da lalata ingancin inganci ba", in ji kungiyar, ta kara da cewa zagayowar suturar polyester tana da yuwuwar zama " tsarin madauki” wata rana.

Wadanda ke bin layin tunanin Grossman suna jayayya cewa ya kamata duniya ke samarwa da cinye ƙarancin filastik gabaɗaya.Idan jama'a sun yi imanin duk abin da suka jefar za a iya sake yin amfani da su, tabbas ba za su ga wata matsala ba wajen ci gaba da cinye kayayyakin robobin da za a iya zubarwa.Abin takaici, ƙaramin yanki na robobin da muke amfani da shi ne ake sake yin fa'ida.A Amurka, kashi 9 cikin 100 na dukkan robobi an sake yin amfani da su a shekarar 2015, a cewar Hukumar Kare Muhalli ta Amurka.

Waɗanda ke kira ga ƙarancin ra'ayi na rPET suna kare cewa ya kamata a ƙarfafa samfuran kayan kwalliya da masu siyayya don fifita zaruruwan yanayi gwargwadon yiwuwa.Bayan haka, ko da yake rPET yana ɗaukar kashi 59 na ƙarancin kuzari don samarwa fiye da budurwa polyester, har yanzu yana buƙatar ƙarin kuzari fiye da hemp, ulu da duka kwayoyin halitta da auduga na yau da kullun, a cewar rahoton 2010 daga Cibiyar Muhalli ta Stockholm.